Bidet Repair Kings provides bidet repair, bidet seat repair, and bidet maintenance services in the Vancouver, WA area for both residential and commercial properties, from leaking attachments and handheld sprayers to electric seats and standalone bidets. Contact us now for a free estimate.
Bidet repair in Vancouver, WA costs anywhere from $170 to $450 on average for a typical fix on a bidet seat or attachment, such as a leak, a valve, a hose, or a nozzle. The price depends on the bidet type, whether parts need to be ordered, any electrical fault, and how easy the shutoff valve and outlet are to reach. Replacing a heater or control panel can cost more.
Yes, we repair bidets in houses, condos, apartments, offices, and commercial restrooms. Let us know how many need work.
We repair electric bidet seats, non-electric attachments, handheld sprayers, standalone bidets, and toilets with a built-in bidet. Tell us which type you have and what it's doing.
Yes, in most cases, including TOTO, Bio Bidet, Brondell, TUSHY, and Kohler. Some internal faults on electric seats have to go back to the manufacturer, and we'll tell you if yours is one of them.
Usually it's a partly closed shutoff valve, a kinked hose, a clogged inlet filter, or mineral buildup in the nozzle. On an electric seat, we also check for a failed internal valve or pump.
Most leaks we see come from the T-valve or hose connections, where a nut has worked loose, a rubber washer is worn or out of place, or the threads are crossed. A steady drip from the nozzle itself usually means a worn internal valve.
Close the shutoff valve behind the toilet by turning it clockwise, unplug an electric seat if you can do it without touching water, and wipe up the floor. Then send us a photo of where it's leaking.
Yes, in most cases, for a leak, hose, valve, remote, or sensor. We'd replace it instead if the circuit board is corroded or burned, water got into the control unit, or the repair costs more than about half the price of a new seat.
No, not for most loose hoses, worn washers, or clogged filters. Shut off the water and reseat the connection snug by hand with the washer in place. Call us if the shutoff valve won't turn or leaks, the leak is inside the seat, or it keeps coming back.
Yes, we cover the Vancouver, WA area. Send us the property address and we'll confirm.
Yes, in many cases, though weekend and evening openings vary by area.
We can typically schedule most bidet repairs within a few days. If a part has to be ordered for your model, expect a second visit, and a factory repair can take a few weeks.
We need the address, the bidet brand and model, what it's doing, and a photo of the connection behind the toilet. On most electric seats the model number is on a sticker on the back or underside of the unit.
No, as long as someone can let us in and the bathroom is clear. Leave us a note on exactly when the problem happens.
Yes, but check with your landlord or property manager first.
Yes, we find the cause and confirm the price before we start. If a second problem turns up once the seat is off, we talk to you before going further.
Yes, often, if the seat is still under warranty and the fault is a defect. The claim goes to the manufacturer with your proof of purchase, and many warranties don't pay for our labor to remove and reinstall the seat.
Yes, it can if the seat is opened up. Warranties commonly exclude damage from improper repair, so on a seat still under warranty we stick to the outside connections and send internal faults to the manufacturer.
Most seat and attachment repairs typically take one to two hours. Standalone bidet faucet or drain work and electrical faults can take longer.
Yes, we check the outlet, the GFCI and breaker, the power cord, and whether the seat is locked onto its mounting plate. A seat that isn't clicked onto its plate often won't power up.
Most weak spray we see comes from a clogged inlet filter, a partly closed shutoff valve, or a kinked hose. If pressure is low at every faucet in the house, the problem is the home's water supply, not the bidet.
Yes, we shut off the water, take the line apart, replace the washer or the T-valve, and reconnect it squarely.
No, not usually. Water at the base often drips down from a loose hose or T-valve connection above it. If water shows up at the floor only during a spray, the toilet's wax ring may have failed. Dry everything, run the spray, and tell us where the water appears.
A drop or two right after a spray is normal. A drip that keeps going is usually sediment in the nozzle, which we clean out, or a worn internal valve, which on many electric seats means a factory repair or a new seat.
Yes, a stuck nozzle is often buildup at its base that we can clean out. If it still won't move, the nozzle assembly or its motor needs replacing. Don't force it by hand in the meantime.
Yes, in many cases. We check the temperature and energy-saver settings first. If those are fine, the heater or warm water tank has often failed and gets replaced, or the seat goes in for factory repair.
The seat sensor probably isn't detecting you. Wipe the seat rim dry and sit farther back. If the manual spray button works but sitting down doesn't, we replace the sensor.
Yes, we check the batteries and re-pair the remote, since some remotes lose pairing after a battery change or power outage. A dead side control panel gets replaced.
An electrical fault or water getting where it shouldn't is the usual reason. Unplug the seat, stop using it, and don't keep resetting the outlet. We check both the seat and the circuit.
Yes, we replace leaking hoses, gaskets, shutoff adapters, and sprayer heads. Close the shutoff adapter after each use until we get there.
Yes, we fix dripping faucets, low flow, worn tailpipe washers, and slow or clogged drains on standalone bidets. Tell us whether the problem is the faucet or the drain.
Yes, we handle the water supply, filter, valve, and power side of smart toilets. Some faults, like a cracked heated seat on a TOTO NEOREST, need a factory-certified technician or a factory repair.
Yes, in most cases. Some electric seats let us swap just the lid, and a cracked heated seat may need a factory repair. Stop using it and don't tape over the crack.
Yes, on many models. Hinges and lids are sold as separate parts for a lot of electric seats, so we order the one that fits yours. Send us the model number.
Yes, we replace broken knobs and stiff control valves on non-electric attachments.
It can be a setting, a maintenance reminder, or a fault, and the pattern tells you which. Note which lights blink and how, and send us the model number.
A hum or click with no spray usually points to a valve, pump, or nozzle motor that's failing or blocked. Tell us when the noise happens.
Yes, we tighten or reset the mounting plate and replace missing rubber pads. A little side-to-side play, about half an inch, is normal on some electric seats such as TOTO WASHLETs.
Yes, we descale nozzles and clean or replace clogged filters and valves. Hard water sediment is one of the most common reasons a bidet stops working.
Yes, we redo crossed threads, missing washers, wrong water lines, and loose mounting plates. A bidet should connect to the cold supply unless it's a warm water attachment.
Yes, unplugging it and plugging it back in clears some faults. Follow your model's reset steps, since the wait ranges from a few seconds to several minutes.
No, unplug it right away and don't use it until it's been checked.
Yes, we can have a licensed electrician repair or add the grounded GFCI outlet an electric seat needs. A new outlet near the toilet usually runs $100 to $200.
We suggest a yearly check for most bidets. Change the inline or inlet filter as often as its maker says, and in hard water areas descale the nozzle and filter with vinegar.
Yes, if yours isn't worth fixing we can remove it, cap or reuse the connection, and install a replacement. Tell us the model you want.
